An Epicurean Excursion, (Jim Freeman, The Citizen)

 

There’s good reason the waterway flowing through Stanford in the Overberg region of the Western Cape is called the Klein River: the distance from source to mouth (as the proverbial crow flies) is so short that said corvid avian would barely reach third gear.

The straight-line distance from where the river rises in the Hemel en Aarde valley to its estuary at the Hermanus Lagoon is little more than five kilometres. Hike its course, however, and you’re talking 10 times that. What makes the Klein River special is that it is the closest river to Cape Town on which, prelockdown, you could go on a booze cruise. Now, you’ll have to be content with looking at glorious scenery, bird-watching, swimming and trailing a fishing line.

Clarens (Free State); Cullinan (Gauteng); Dullstroom (Mpumalanga); Hogsback (Eastern Cape); Nottingham Road and Howick (KwaZulu-Natal Midlands Meander) and Riebeeck Kasteel, Greyton and Paternoster in the Western Cape are almost household names. Few people, however, seem to know about Stanford.

Perhaps, like Sedgefield on the Garden Route, it’s because the road runs past the place without going through it. Having spent several days there recently, I think Stanford eclipses most of the other South African villages I’ve been to in terms of beauty, visitor attractiveness and value for money.

Residents are village-proud and extremely welcoming – a bit of an eye-opener considering that Stanford, though heavily dependent on tourism for its existence, is in a province traditionally curmudgeonly towards visitors.

Stanford is wonderful for a long weekend getaway, provided you are not on diet or cannot envisage a good meal without wine or beer, because the village is chockablock with exceptional restaurants, bistros and bakeries.

I unexpectedly encountered one of my travel-media colleagues in the village and she accompanied me to La Trattoria, a high street eatery that has regularly won accolades in the annual Eat Out awards. I told co-owner Lionello Giovannetti my go-to dish in evaluating Italian restaurants was spaghetti bolognese because getting it perfect means the chef has nailed many of the most important basic combinations and processes. Happily he agreed and two bowls delicious of “spag bol” featured in a procession of tapas-style offerings that made their way from his kitchen to our table. Needless to say, we cast longing eyes at wine racks featuring products from Chianti and Valpolicella but begging is terribly demeaning.

My three-night excursion began the previous afternoon when I checked in at Haesfarm, a 40ha gem of a place which, in days of Covid-strangeness, is a jewel beyond price.

Guest accommodation comprises only two suites, which makes the place ideal for a family or friends. It’s situated on a hill at the top of the Akkedisberg Pass 12km from the village and has panoramic views over Stanford and Walker Bay (on really clear days you can see right across False Bay to Cape Point … about 110km according to the local crow).

The fynbos farm was bought by Harry Poortman and Steyn Jacobs in 2012. Poortman, an award-winning architect – among many other things – from Holland transformed the dilapidated farmhouse into a guesthouse that features personal art and furniture, among them unique and limited-edition pieces. Isolation and comfort apart, the absolute drawcard to Haesfarm lies in the notice to guests who are booking in that “dinner can be booked with us. Please let us know 24 hours before as we prep fresh food, sourced locally, and there might just be a herb or veggie from our garden ready for a tasty dish or recipe we want to try out…”.

Take my advice: do it! Dinner on the farm was one of the highlights of my visit.  The pre-dinner snack was a Dutch classic, bitterballen (enjoyed with the local Walker Bay Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc), followed by a mouthwatering soufflé made with five local cheeses.

“We’re very lucky in having two of South Africa’s best cheese-makers, Klein River and Stonehouse, as neighbours,” said Harry.

At breakfast the next morning – which started with kombuchainfused oats with plain yoghurt, fynbos honey and fresh fruit – I asked Steyn whether I’d partaken too much of the Raka (another neighbour) Cabernet Franc and the post-prandial Boplaas brandy? I swore, I said, I’d heard lions roaring in the middle of the night! Not at all, he replied, the Panthera Africa Big Cat Sanctuary was less than two kilometres away … as the crow flies.

Anyone that knows me will tell you I’m opposed to any form of “petting zoo”. A call to my friend Christoff Longland, a field guide at nearby Grootbos Private Nature Reserve, allayed my fears. Many people think a sanctuary is a place animals go before being returned to the wild. It’s not; they go to live out their lives with a modicum of dignity because there is no chance of them returning to their species’ natural state. So it is with Panthera Africa and, as big cat sanctuaries go, it’s better than most I’ve seen. The 40ha facility currently houses 26 lions, tigers, leopard, caracal and other cats, and those that I saw were healthy.

Very close to Panthera (which is a not-for-profit concern) is the Birkenhead Brewery which shares its space with Walker Bay Vineyards. I stopped in there a couple of months ago for a beer before ordering a sumptuous cheese and charcuterie platter with a bottle of wine.

Birkenhead was one of the first micro-breweries in South Africa and is named after the British troopship that was wrecked off Gansbaai in a storm in 1852.

Wikipedia explains that “there were not enough serviceable lifeboats for all the passengers and the soldiers famously stood firm on board, thereby allowing the women and children to board the boats safely and escape the sinking”.

“Only 193 of the estimated 643 people on board survived, and the soldiers’ chivalry gave rise to the unofficial ‘women and children first’ protocol when abandoning ship.”

There was zero chance of anything so magnanimous being required when I finally made it to the stately Lady Stanford for my cruise down the Klein River. The river was placid, there was not a breath of wind and the water isn’t that deep anyway.

I was also the only person on board with Skipper Pete (ordinarily the Lady Stanford can take up to 26 passengers) so, had anything gone wrong, I’d have had the pick of the lifebelts.

Some facts about Stanford: Stanford has a population of about 5 000 people and lies between Hermanus and Gansbaai on the Walker Bay section of the Overstrand.

It is about 140km by road from central Cape Town. The village is named after Sir Robert Stanford, an Ireland born retired officer in the British army who arrived in the Cape Colony in 1838.

He was a visionary farmer who prospered, mainly due to his idea of supplying fresh produce to Cape Town by boat across False Bay to Simonstown instead of the much more time-consuming ox-wagon route over the Hottentots-Holland mountain range.

He died in gentle penury after he was ostracised by the colonist community (especially the banks!) for the role he played in provisioning a ship bearing Irish convicts.

The ship Neptune was forced to ride at anchor at Simonstown when the colonists withheld all supplies to all government institutions and facilities until it was agreed all the convicts would be sent to another country.

Stanford, who was still on half-pay to the army, provided the necessary supplies. The convict ship proceeded to what is now Australia but the Overberg farmer had earned the colonists’ undying ire.

 

Some facts about Stanford

Find out more: Stanford Association of Tourism and Business: www.stanfordinfo.co.za

Lady Stanford River Cruises: www.ladystanford.co.za

Haesfarm: www.haesfarm.co.za

La Trattoria: 081-805-7470

Panthera Africa Big Cat Sanctuary: www.pantheraafrica.com

Relaxed Mountain Biking at its Best in the Stanford MTB Classic

Three hundred mountain bikers experienced the rebirth of relaxed stage race riding on the 17th and 18th of February in the 2018 Stanford MTB Classic. The two day race was in reality more of a stage ride, with untimed routes and no prizes for the first riders across the line encouraging everyone to slow down and enjoy the magnificent scenery.

The Stanford MTB Classic featured a relaxed atmosphere where stopping to take photos and take in the scenery was the order of the day. Photo by Oakpics.com.

Hosted by the Stanford Valley Guest Farm, in the fertile vineyard lined valleys and on the pristine fynbos covered slopes of the Perdeberg Mountains, to the east of the country village of Stanford the event took in some of the Overberg’s best kept secrets. The 46 and 40 kilometre stage distances meant that time in the saddle, even at a leisurely pace, was limited meaning time relaxing off the bike in the beautiful race village could be maximised.

The swing bridge over the Waboomsrivier was one of the highlights of Stage 1. Photo by Oakpics.com

Stage one featured a mix of smooth gravel district roads, a little more rugged vineyard jeep tracks, a grassy 4×4 trail to the highest point of the day and the flowing Paardenberg Farm singletracks which wind their way along, and across a couple of times, the Waboomsrivier. The highlight of the day was either the swing-bridge crossing of the Waboomsrivier or the descent back to the Stanford Valley Guest Farm; depending on who one asked. The hot weather was tempered by a cooling wind, but that only served to ensure that the Spar water points, stocked with koeksisers, watermelon and the more conventional water point snacks were utilized to a greater extent.

The festive atmosphere extended off the bike where chats about the trails and scenery flowed along with the excellent local wine and beer. Photo by Oakpics.com.

Post stage, riders kicked back and relaxed under the shady oaks on the Stanford Valley Guest Farm lawns; with the riders enjoying a delicious lunch before whiling away their afternoon with a good book, an excellent beer, or deep in conversation over one of the region’s world class wines.

The pristine fynbos of the Perdeberg and Kleinrivier Mountains provided the backdrop for beautiful mountain biking. Photo by Oakpics.com.

Stage two featured more scenic 4×4 trails, this time along the foothills of the Kleinrivier Mountains as the route meandered towards Stanford itself, passing by the Panthera Africa Big Cat Sanctuary and through the safer but no less distraction filled Sir Robert Stanford Wine Estate, where an impromptu wine tasting awaited. Following on the heels of port tasting at Vaalvlei the shorter distance of just 40 kilometres was perhaps a wise option by race organisers Freebody-Sports.

The winding gravel roads of the Overberg provided easy riding for much of the route. Photo by Oakpics.com.

The conclusion of the final stage was followed by lunch under the oaks and a lucky draw prize-giving, where riders regardless of where in the field they finished stood an equal chance of winning one of the prizes donated by the Stanford MTB Classic sponsors. While each and every rider contributed to making the event a festive and social success a special word of praise must go to Lizelle Cloete and Charl Avenant who dressed up on both days and as such have won a weekend’s accommodation at the beautiful Stanford Hills Guest Farm for their exceptional spirit.

Lizelle Cloete & Charl Avenant embodied the spirit of the Stanford MTB Classic by dressing up for both days of the event and as such have won a weekend away at Stanford Hills. Photo by Oakpics.com.

For riders looking to experience a more intense mountain biking experience, entries are open for Freebody-Sports’ sister event, the Greyt Escape. The event is a three day mountain biking stage race which takes place from the mountain biking mecca of Greyton from the 15th to the 17th of June 2018. For more information on the Greyt Escape please visit www.thegreytescape.co.za.

The 2019 Stanford MTB Classic meanwhile is pencilled in for the 16th and 17th of February next year, and for more information please visit www.stanfordmtbclassic.co.za.

Words by Seamus Allardice

Valentine’s plans

What’s cooking, good looking? Are you dazzling your date with a homecooked meal, making a homemade card, and decorating your lounge with tea lights and rose petals? For those of you who are all thumbs when it comes to crafts, more boerie-on-the-braai than fillet steak, and are about as romantic as a beige pair of secret socks, we have some suggestions to help you surprise your Valentine.

To book for a comedy evening with Mary Steward at the Tasting Room at Stanford Hills Estate, and enjoy this midweek Valentine’s Day with Date Night for the whole family, click here. A blackboard menu and local wines will put hearts in your eyes.

Feel like a romantic meal for just two people, in the restaurant or courtyard at Coffee Corner? Enjoy the welcome bubbly and 3 intimate courses click here.

An al fresco picnic basket packed with lovely treats and a waiter on hand as your recline on the bank of the lily pond will fill your heart with pleasure at Zesty Lemon at Sir Robert Stanford Estate. For more information or to book, click here

For something a little more on the wild side, why not book a special Valentine Sunset Visit at Panthera Africa and feel the deep rumbling roaring of the big cats at sunset? For more information or to book, click here.

Klein River Cheese has decided to stretch Valentine’s Day right from 14-17 February, so if a basket brimming with cheesey treats and a blanket thrown open on a lush lawn sounds like heaven to you, make sure you extend your Valentine time to include this.

You can pack your own picnic basket with charcuterie from Erwin or Martin’s Deli, mature cheeses from Klein River Cheese and buttery bakes from Ou Meul. The Fynbos Distillery sells delicious grappa-based liqueurs, and Stanford Harvest has a wine shop with beautifully labelled wines that will knock your socks off. The Stanford Wine Route has some specials so pop in to one of the 9 boutique farms and choose your favourite. Welgesind has a special offer on their Romanse Blanc de Noir and Boschrivier is offering a cheese platter and bottle of wine at a show-stopping price!

If fresh flowers are the best way to your Valentine’s heart, why not keep them local and ditch the long-stem roses? Fresh bunches of fynbos are available in the village from OK MiniMark and the Village Emporium. Ou Meul has some beautiful wild olive saplings for the gift that will bear fruit year after year. And for an exquisite orchid grown right here in Stanford at Eikenhoff Nursery, call Debra to make an appointment and surprise your love with one of these beauties!

Antjie’s Handmade Naturals are available from the shop on the stoep of the Stanford Hotel – sprinkle some of the Rose Geranium bath salts into a semi-shallow waterwise bath, balance a glass of Cap Classique from one of the local Stanford Wine Route farms on the edge of the bath, and let the evening follow its own path.

And if you are single, footloose and fancy-free this Valentine’s Day, we strongly recommend the bath with bubbly anyway!

Words by Phil Murray, Stanford Tourism 028 341 0340

10 Things to do in Stanford with the kids

Stanford is a wonderful family destination which is only two hours drive from the Mother City, and those lucky enough to have shrugged off city life for country simplicity are happy to share the secret good life with visitors.

by Philippa Murray

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Cat Sanctuary to open on Easter Weekend in Stanford!

Extra, extra, read all about it – we’ve just received an update from Panthera Africa Big Cat Sanctuary who are thrilled to announce that they will be opening their doors for Easter Weekend! This is Big (Cat) News for Stanford so join us in welcoming and supporting our new neighbours!


Panthera Africa is a big cat sanctuary for any captive bred lions, leopards and tigers in need of rescue. Animal welfare is our top priority. The big cats will be protected and prosper for the rest of their lives at Panthera Africa!

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